Located 233 kilometers from the City of Buenos Aires, Tordillo, whose name comes from the legend of an indomitable steed, is the perfect place to get away and enjoy the tranquility, silence and nature. Without going any further, it is the municipality of the Province with the fewest inhabitants.
Tordillo was founded on December 20, 1839 by decree of the then governor Juan Manuel de Rosas. Its name refers to the legend of a steed that could never be captured. On Route 11, the sculpture of that animal welcomes visitors at the entrance to General Conesa, the head city of the municipality.
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According to local legend, a gray-skinned wild horse, called Tordillo, appeared in that area many years ago. The local gauchos and countrymen pursued him day and night to capture him, but the indomitable animal managed to avoid whips, ropes and fences. Now, the name of the party pays tribute to the freedom of that steed.
Tordillo, the municipality with the fewest inhabitants in the province of Buenos Aires
According to the results of the last census, Tordillo has 2,672 inhabitants. Although it remains the least populated municipality in the entire province of Buenos Aires, it registered a significant increase of 51.5 percent in its population compared to the 2010 census, when it registered 1,764 residents.
“There is still this thing about leaving the doors open, the car with the key, you can forget a bicycle and it will be there the next day. Furthermore, everything is close, you don't have to wait in lines or travel long distances to reach your destination,” said Romina Latorre, one of the teachers at the only secondary school in the entire district, in dialogue with Entre Líneas.
Iron bridge in Villa Roch, municipality of Tordillo.
Most people work in the municipality. There are also several who are police officers or teachers. There are those who have jobs in the nearby toll booths, while others work in the fields.
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For her part, Camila Cuello, a 25-year-old girl who graduated as a Surveyor in La Plata and then returned home, referred to the limited nightlife options for teenagers: “Before we went to the old bar, where the men, more like a grocery store. Now there is a brewery and a little bar recently opened to go have a drink. There is no bowling alley, to go out you go to a neighboring city but for that you have to take a route, with the inconveniences that that has.”
The corner of Crotto and the iron bridge
At the roundabout where routes 11 and 63 intersect is the “La Esquina de Crotto” grocery store, which was active for more than 150 years. It opened its doors in 1856 and, for decades, it was an important stop for thousands of travelers heading to the Buenos Aires coast. Initially, accommodation was also built in that area and there was even a school that taught young people to read and write.
The “Esquina de Crotto” Grocery Store, in Tordillo.
The name “La Esquina de Crotto” refers to the then owner of the land where that building was built: José Camilo Crotto, one of the founders of the Radical Civic Union and governor of the province of Buenos Aires between 1918 and 1921. At that time , country bowling alleys and grocery stores were called “corners”.
After providing services in three different centuries, always attended by the Daguerre family, it closed its doors in 2014. Since then, vegetation and the passage of time threaten its disappearance. From the Municipality of Tordillo they assure that there are projects to declare it a National and Provincial Historical Heritage and even to reopen it.
Another emblematic place in Tordillo is the famous red iron bridge located in Villa Roch, which crosses Channel 1 at kilometer 245 of Route 11 and was inaugurated in 1913. It is impossible not to see it heading towards the main beaches of the coast. Buenos Aires Although it has been unused for three decades, no one ordered it to be demolished.